Red
Roads State
Pages
Alaska
Trip FAQ's
-
How
long did your trip take?
-
What
were the roads like?
-
Did
you see lots of animals?
-
Did
you go to Denali National Park?
-
Did
you go fishing?
-
Did
you take a cruise?
-
What
was your favorite activity?
-
What
would you do differently?
-
How
did you decide where to go and what to do?

1. How
long did your trip take?
Our
Alaska adventure was in 2003, our first summer as fulltimers. We had decided to
take the trip because we weren't sure how we were going to like fulltiming. If
we gave up traveling, at least we would have this special adventure to remember.
We
left Wenatchee, WA on May 19, 2003 and crossed the border into British
Columbia, Canada about
2:00 p.m. on US 27 north of Oroville, WA. We re-entered the lower forty-eight
states just under three months later, on August 16, on I-15, just north of
Sweetgrass, MT. We
didn't hurry through Canada on our way north or south. We enjoyed plenty of
gorgeous scenery in British Columbia, Yukon Territory, and Alberta. It was
all covered in The Milepost and was definitely part of our Alaska
adventure.
Alaska
is a big place, even counting only the places that can be reached by motor
vehicles. Although we sampled many of the "not-to-be-missed" spots,
there were several notable omissions. We'd have no difficulty spending another
summer (or two!) in Alaska.
return
to top

2. What
were the roads like?
Because
we were driving our big rig, we stayed on main roads. These were mostly paved,
although occasionally they were gravel. Sometimes they were four-lane divided
highways, like the
John
Hart Highway, north of Prince George, BC. Other times they were red roads,
like the
Cassiar
Highway, BC. The worst conditions were in
construction zones. We had to follow pilot cars sometimes, as one-way traffic
was guided through the
work
areas.
We
had one very bad section of washboard. We shattered a couple of pieces of Corelle
dinnerware that bounced out of the cupboard and hit the floor. We decided to
take a commercial tour rather than drive our rig on the
Dalton Highway.
All in all, it
was hard to complain about driving conditions as we made our way through
fantastic
scenery! Often we were
close
to water. It seemed like we were
never
far from mountains.
return
to top

3. Did
you see lots of animals?
We
spotted our first black bear on our first afternoon in Canada, while driving
west on the Crow's Nest Highway. We saw quite a few of them on the trip,
including this
sow
and cubs along the Yellowhead Highway in Alberta. Near Hyder, AK, we watched a
grizzly
bear eating salmon.
Locals,
other travelers, and The Milepost often alerted us to areas where
wildlife were frequently spotted. One campground owner in Prince George
actually circled a spot on the map, telling us that we'd probably see stone
sheep on the road there. Sure enough, when we got to that location, there were
the
sheep! The morning we left
Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park (British Columbia), I read aloud the
citation in The Milepost for one-tenth of a mile beyond (west of) the
park entrance. "CAUTION: Highway narrows westbound. Watch for bison next
73 miles/117 km westbound. Use extreme caution at night and in fog or other
poor driving conditions." Then I looked up from the book and there at the
edge of the woods was a
bison!
One
of our favorite animal encounters was on our excursion trip to the Arctic
Circle, out of Fairbanks, AK. We spotted a young moose just about the same
time she took note of us. As the driver slowed the van so we passengers could
take photos, the moose ducked behind a tree to escape further notice. The
trouble was,
only
her face was hidden by the skinny tree. It was almost as if
she were saying, "If I can't see you, you can't see me!" Then
she
peeked to see if we were still there.
On
our shuttle bus trip to Eielson Visitor Center in Denali National Park, AK, we
learned about "rock sheep." Our driver had encouraged us to call out
any independent wildlife spottings so all bus riders could enjoy seeing the
animals. With the advantage of his binoculars, David excitedly reported to
first sighting: Dall sheep high up and far away. The driver gently pointed out
that what he saw were rocks. Because so many people mistook them for sheep,
such rocks along the way had been dubbed "rock sheep." (As our
family continued to travel, we began to apply this naming pattern to other natural features
mistaken for wildlife. We saw stump
bears and bush bison.)
For photos of some of the other animals we saw, see the northern
wildlife photo album.
We also saw lots of animals on
our wildlife cruise in Prince William Sound. The cruise
photo album shows some of them.
return
to top

4. Did
you go to Denali National Park?
We
showed up at Denali without a campground reservation on a Wednesday in the
middle of July. We were able to reserve four nights at Riley Creek Campground,
starting the following night (Thursday). This meant we only had to spend one
night in a campground just outside the Denali entrance. We also reserved spots
on the bus to Eielson Visitor Center for Friday. That was a great trip on what
turned out to be our only sunny day in the park.
Bud didn't let two days of rain stop him from completing his junior ranger
badge. We even took a rain hike and were treated to a bull moose sighting by
Horseshoe Lake. Our next stop was Fairbanks, where we learned that the rain
had caused considerable flooding and damage in the Denali area.
From Denali National Park, I took a special souvenir back to our former
hometown in Ohio. It was a receipt for items we had purchased at the Riley
Creek Mercantile in the park. In Ohio, I gave it to the owner of our town's
own Riley Creek Mercantile, where we used to shop. We explored Riley Creek in
Denali and I thought about the Riley Creek that ran behind the house we had
sold in Ohio.
return
to top

5. Did
you go fishing?
Although
none of us is a proficient fisherman, David and Bud did have several good
experiences. The first one was in the Chilkoot River, near Haines, AK. David
purchased a three-day license and some appropriate tackle in town. According to
the daily postings at the ADF&G fish weir, sockeye salmon were returning to
Chilkoot Lake. Our fishermen snagged only Dolly
Varden, a fish we had never heard of before. David and Bud did not keep any
of the fish they caught. The experience was memorable because of the awesome
setting: mountains, rushing water, river rocks, and eagles.
David and Bud went on a salmon charter out of Valdez, AK. They contributed more
than their share to the boat limit of pink salmon. Bud was pleased with
the
fish he got to keep. We ate them!
For three days, we stayed at a fishing campground in Soldatna, AK. Bud and
David
fished
along the river's edge. We enjoyed fresh
red
salmon for supper all three nights!
return
to top

6. Did
you take a cruise?
J
really enjoyed our cruise aboard the Lu-Lu Belle out of Valdez.
This luxury yacht was actually the home of the captain and his wife, who spend
summers in Valdez. The scenery was spectacular and the narrative was quite
interesting and informative. We learned how to watch for whales' footprints;
we saw puffins fly; and we heard an interesting story about sea lion
relocation. For photos, see our cruise
photo album.
The next time we go to Alaska, I think we'll try to take a wildlife cruise on
the other side of Prince William Sound, maybe out of Seward. We would like to
get closer to a glacier and have a chance to see (and hear!) it calving.
return
to top

7.
What was your favorite activity?
For Bud, a real highlight was
fishing
at Soldatna. We had to improvise waders for him, using garbage bags
and duct tape, but he didn't let that hinder him one bit! The next time we go
to Alaska, he wants to spend a longer time fishing on the Kenai Peninsula.
From the Columbia Icefield Visitors' Centre, in Banff National Park, BC, we
took a Brewster snocoach (Ice Explorer) tour on the Athabasca Glacier. J
enjoyed this a lot! The ride itself was an experience, being in a
unique
vehicle. The driver told us a lot about glaciers and we got to spend a short time walking around on the
icy
formation. See our glaciers
photo album.
The activity that I enjoyed the most was our ride on the White
Pass & Yukon Route Railroad out of Skagway, AK. Although an
historic
engine is used on special occasions,
our
train was pulled by
vintage
diesel locomotives. As we traveled from tidewater (sea level) to the White
Pass (2285 ft.) I enjoyed the narration about the history of this narrow-gage
railway that was built in 1898 to carry gold stampeders over the pass. It was
thrilling to see
the
actual trail used by so many hopeful adventurers on their way to the
Klondike.
return
to top

8.
What would you do differently?
People sometimes ask us this question when they are planning a trip to Alaska.
I suppose they're hoping we'll give them some advice on things to avoid or
things to do so their trip will be a "success." It seems to me just
about any trip to Alaska would be an adventure! While it is worthwhile to
research ahead of time, a trip planner would do well to keep three things in
mind: allow as much time as possible (Think "months" instead of
"weeks."); be flexible, willing to change to "Plan B" when
necessary; consider your first trip as just that, your first trip, with
more to come!
It's hard to say what we would change about our first trip to Alaska, because
it was an awesome experience. However, we all have ideas about what to do when
we return to Alaska.
David
would like to take a chest freezer for fish. It was
wonderful to have fresh salmon, but he would have like to catch more and
freeze it.
I'd return in a truck camper (when there are only two of
us). There would be more
overnight parking options. Also, I'd take it on the ferry and see some of the
places that can't be reached by road.
J
would like to go in the winter to see the stars and the aurora borealis. (In
the summer, there is virtually no night sky.) But
first, she'd have to figure out a way to keep warm because she dislikes cold
weather!
Bud
would spend more time fishing on the Kenai Peninsula.
return
to top

9.
How did you decide where to go and what to do?
As
navigator and "coordinator of learning" for our family, I relied
primarily on two print resources during our trip. One was the current edition of
The Milepost. The other was Frommer's Alaska. I also found local
resources (tourist materials) readily available and picked them up along the way.
The
Milepost is published annually, with the year's edition usually available in
early March. It is an amazing guide for anyone traveling within Alaska by road.
Included is detailed information about routes to Alaska through the Canadian
provinces of British Columbia, Alberta, the Yukon, and Northwest Territories.
You can get much of the information in this resource at the web
site, but take the book along with you for daily reference as you travel. I
studied it before our trip and highlighted places I wanted to see. The next time
we go to Alaska, I'll use checkmarks in The Milepost as a log of our
adventure.
Frommer's Alaska 200_ (updated edition yearly) is a travel guide written
by Charles P. Wohlforth, a lifelong Alaska resident. He gives information about
activities and services, using a rating system. He also has a web
site with helpful information. He'll even answer questions on his message
board!
As far as choosing actual activities, we had to weigh the usual considerations:
time, cost, and residual effects. Residual effects are a combination of several
very personal considerations, including the "wow factor " (a rating
system for sights and activities that take away your breath), the "I've
always wanted to" factor (for things you've always wanted to
see/do), and the "serendipity factor" (for recognizing and taking
advantage of unplanned, suddenly-arising opportunities which will create strong
and lasting impressions). Personally, I also had to consider the
"fear" factor. After all, there's a lot of wilderness (and wild-ness)
up north! But seriously, folks, there's plenty of good advice available for how
to view wildlife safely, how to "hike smart," and how to enjoy
yourself on your great Alaska adventure.
return
to top